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Bedside Table

The Project

This bedside table is the perfect size for any bedroom, or it can be used in a living room as an end table. While it's of fairly straightforward construction, it will give you experience in design, roughing out stock, squaring, jointing and two-step finishing systems, in both traditional and contemporary decorating colors.

Tools and Materials

Tools Required

  • Jointer
  • Planer
  • Table saw
  • Band saw
  • Miter box
  • Router table
  • Drill press
  • Dado blade
  • 3/8" drill bit
  • 9/64" drill bit
  • Pencil
  • Clean cloths
  • Doweling jig or biscuit joiner
  • Tape measure
  • 3/8" roundover bit
  • High-quality brush
  • #6 X 1-5/8" drywall screws
  • Professional Strength Wood Glue

 

Materials Required

Item Number Required Finish Dimensions Rough Dimensions
Top one 3/4" X 12" X 18" 7/8" X 13" X 19"
Shelf one 3/4" X 9 1/2" X 15 1/2" 7/8" X 11" X 17"
Long rail two 3/4" X 2" X 12-1/2" 7/8" x 2-1/2" X 13-1/2"
Short rail two 3/4" X 2" X 6-1/2"* 7/8" X 2-1/4" X 7-1/2"
Leg four 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 18-1/4" N/A ***
*Optional: Instead use one 7/8" X 2-1/4" X 17" piece and cut in half (see RAILS section of PROCEDURE, below).
**Hardwood is recommended, but the project can be done with softwood.
***3/4" thick finished stock faceglued together to make 1 1/2" thick x 1 1/2" wide legs.

Procedure

I. Top and Shelf

Lay out rough dimensions of all parts on wood.
Cut pieces to rough dimension lengths.
Joint one edge of each piece.
Cut and glue pieces edge to edge to make the top. (Glue oversize.)
Cut and glue pieces edge to edge to make the shelf. (Glue oversize.)
Let glue cure overnight.
Plane to 3/4" thick. * If you started with 3/4" stock, keep it as thick as possible.
Cut to finished size on the table saw.
Sand smooth.
Rout the top edge of the top with whatever edge-forming bit you like. * DO NOT ROUT THE SHELF!
On the shelf only, cut a 3/4" X 3/4" square off each corner to fit into the legs.

II. Legs


Face-glue two 3/4" thick by 1 1/2" wide leg pieces to make four leg blanks 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" X 20". Use straight finished wood.
Using the router table, rout a 3/8" roundover on each edge.
Square cut one end of each leg on the miter box.
Measuring from the squared end, mark and cut the other end of each leg to 18-3/4".
Sand smooth.


III. Rails


Cut rails to 2" wide.* You may wish to cut slightly oversized and joint to 2". Machine the two short rails together as one piece and cut into two short lengths after all machining is done. * Make sure to use proper push blocks and safety procedure for the jointer.
Cut one end of each rail square on the miter box or table saw.
Measuring from the squared end, mark and cut two long rails at 12-1/2" and one extra long rail into two short rails at 6-1/2".
Drill a 3/8" hole 1" into the edge of each rail. Then drill a 9/64" pilot hole the rest of the way through. (The holes will be used to attach the top to the table.) * The hole should be approximately centered on each piece.
Elongate the hole on the upper side by coming in from the top with a drill and carefully wiggling the drill around to end up with a tapered hole. This will allow for a little movement in the table. Wood shrinks and expands with changes in temperature and humidity, and without an allowance for movement, the table could crack at some point in time.

IV. Assembly


Take the four legs and cut a 3/4" dado 3/4" deep in two adjacent edges approximately 2" in from one end. * These dadoes support the shelf.
Finish sand all pieces.
Use either dowels or biscuits to attach the rails to the legs.* You must insert the shelf before you glue the rails to the legs.
Attach the top using four #6 X 1-5/8" drywall screws. * The screws slide through the holes that you drilled in your rails.


V. Sanding, Staining and Finishing

Sand all surfaces and remove all evidence of sanding dust.
Pre-treat softwoods with Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner.
a. Apply stain and finish

Tips Summary

If conditioning softwood, don't forget the porous end-grain; it may need an extra coat of wood conditioner to help the wood absorb stain evenly.
Remove excess glue around joints before staining.
Minwax® Wood Finish™ Natural can be added to lighten any of the Minwax® Wood Finish™ tones. To darken or shade a hue, apply additional coats of stain.
If you're working in a cold or damp area, allow for longer drying times between coats.
If using pastel wood stains, work in small sections and maintain a wet edge since pastel stains tend to dry quickly. If using a water cleanup finish like Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish, do not use steel wool to smooth wood before or between coats. Strands of steel fiber caught in the wood can cause rust spots when coated with any water cleanup finish.


plans courtesy of: WoodWorkersWorkShop.com

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